The Lifetrain Trust to West Coast America

A Personal View by Matthew Law.
Sunday 14 – Wednesday 24 September 2003
  

Half way through our first week, having mastered boarding aeroplanes and coaches to a certain degree, it was time to transfer to our second destination of the trip. From Las Vegas, Navada (more of which later) we were about to fly in a north-westerly direction to a city called Fresno located slap-bang in the middle of California.

The queue of wheelchairs (with users present) formed in the walkway tunnel and each ‘non-ambulant’ person in turn was lifted onto the plane by a couple of the Lifetrains’ willing able-bodied helpers. All wheelchairs were tied (so loose parts would not become detached in transit), folded, and carried to the luggage hold of the plane. This took about 20-25 minutes and then the ambulant disabled members of the party, followed by the able-bodied minority filled up the front section of the small jet plane. (a 767 I think) The other passengers followed and total boarding took about 35-40 minutes.

The cabin crew gave their safety briefing (locate your nearest exit and in the unlikely event of an emergency………..etc, etc). I think because of the large percentage of disabled passengers on board the cabin crew announcer decided to add a bit to her briefing: ‘Those passengers requiring special assistance are to attract the attention of members of the cabin crew who will provide assistance where necessary’. The words ‘over to you then’ emanated from the lips of Richard followed by the loudest combined burst of laughter on the trip. I think The Lifetrain Trusts sole internal flight in America was a bit of an eye opener for the staff of this particular airline.

We were supposed to arrive at Fresno airport at around 9.30 pm but delays at Las Vegas airport (no fault of our own) meant it was nearer 11.30. My passing comment to Mel ‘We’ve got to be up in little over five hours time for breakfast’ was not greeted with too much enthusiasm! Once we had all got off the plane and taken the short walk to our Holiday Inn most of us were in bed by midnight. I say most because we were inconvenienced more by the airport delaying handling our luggage. Even though it was being taken straight to our next hotel (in Salinas) it still had to be collected.

So, up at five for six O’clock breakfast and ready to board the bus at seven. Yosemite was our destination (pronounced ‘Your-sym-itee’). It was a 3 hour drive but - as with all our coaches – the air-conditioning and comfort made it a pleasant journey.
Yosemite National Park is a huge area of scenic wildlands set aside in 1890 to preserve a portion of the Sierra Navada that stretches along the middle-eastern flank of California. It ranges from 2,000 feet above sea level to 13,000 at its’ peak. It comprises alpine wildernesses, tree groves, waterfalls, valleys, lakes, rivers, granite slopes, cliffs and mountains. The Park is home to many wild animals and a quote from the accompanying Park literature made me smile: ‘If attacked by a mountain lion, call 911 and fight back hmmmm. We all had lunch in the restaurant and bought souvenirs in the visitors centre then left the Park at about four.

At Yosemite (l to r) Donna K, Sian, Mel & Pat Sunset on the road to Salinas

The town of Salinas was about another 3 hour drive. The Salinas Valley is the Salad Bowl of the World, supporting a 3 billion-dollar agriculture industry. Salinas is home to both the California Rodeo and California International Air show and was the boyhood home of John Steinbeck (Nobel Prize winning author). The road through it has mountains on both sides (the Gabilan and Santa Lucia mountain ranges) and follows the Salinas River to Monterey Bay. Salinas is 60 miles south of San Hose (Do you know the way to San Hose – you do now!) and 100 miles south of San Francisco. On our journey from Yosemite we were lucky enough to see a pretty amazing sunset which I captured with my camera out of the coach window (above right).

Our first meal at the hotel was in a conference room because the hosts felt that the number of wheelchairs present would obstruct the movement of other restaurant guests. Whether an excuse to separate disabled from non-disabled or a legitimate reason is unclear but I for one quite enjoyed all 23 of us in the same room plus the ability to hear what everyone else was saying (there was no background music in this room). This was not a view shared by everyone in the party however and future meals were taken in the more atmospheric restaurant of the Black Bear Diner.

The morning of Friday 19th was spent quietly around the hotel complex. On both the Friday and Saturday mornings we all took breakfast in the Diner. I guess you would call them full American breakfasts: A choice of either French toast (4 slices, tennis ball sized) or pancakes (2 x football sized). Then 2 eggs (over-easy, sunny side up or scrambled. Finally; a choice of either bacon or sausages. All very yummy!

At about mid-day we all left on the coach and headed for the coast; and Monterey Bay in Carmel-by-the-Sea. Carmel village is dynamic, yet quaint and picturesque. The Village is only one square mile in size yet has numerous unique shops (we must have been in about half of them), fine restaurants and a spectacular white-sand beach. Carmel is the home of the Sea Life Museum but the weather was so bright, sunny and warm (as it was throughout our entire holiday) that the majority of us preferred to be outside. I managed to find a working ATM machine for the first time in the week too! Many thanks to Pat for lending me money that just about lasted ‘till then.

Monterey Bay By the pool in Salinas

Saturday got off to a really good start as the second I came out my bedroom I received a text message (could not get a signal in the room) saying that Chelsea had just beaten Wolves 5-0. We had breakfast at nine and were able to spend an hour by the pool (above right) before leaving for our final destination San Francisco.

Saturday 20th September. (The date sounds familiar to me for some reason). “Leave the hotel in Salinas to drive the 17 miles to San Francisco, where we will stay for three nights”

This did not sound the most enthralling day of the holiday according to the itinerary. However, it soon became apparent that something must have been lost in the translation. In 1880, the elegant Hotel Del Monte opened its doors to the public. Among the many diversions available to guests was a horse-drawn carriage ride on a scenic, 17-mile gravel road. The road curved its’ way around the Monterey Peninsula and through the Del Monte Forest. Today, 17-Mile Drive remains one of the most enchanting and famous stretches of road in the country, with much of its most dramatic surroundings remarkably unchanged from those first, historic tours. It is one of only nine private toll roads in the country, and the only one west of the Mississippi. The majority of the route has beautiful scenery and expensive homes (including John Travoltas’) on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other.

The route A view from the web A view from our coach

Donna K had built up a reputation on the trip as an expert route timer. Any Road sign showing distance to a location was greeted by a time at average speed calculation within an instant by Donna. On request and within an instant she announced that, at an average speed of 30 mph, this drive should take 32 minutes. She wasn’t far out being that the coach rarely reached this speed.

We arrived at our hotel in Pacifica, about 10 miles south of San Francisco in mid afternoon and after a quick milkshake in a local restaurant it was time to acquaint ourselves with our new surroundings. I soon found myself looking out at a very inviting looking swimming pool and spa. Even a broken wheelchair lift down to the pool area couldn’t put me off a dip. I was carried down 5 concrete steps in my chair by 3 helpers from our group and one strapping hotel guest. It was the first time I had ever been in a spa. I dare say the appeal would subside if I did not have 3 bikini clad twenty-something females to lift me in!

The superb hotel, location and the friendships that had built up in a week together made the three days spent in San Francisco, for me, the most enjoyable of the holiday. However, this time last week many of us had never met………..
 

……..I was up at four in the morning to leave at six and be at Gatwick by seven on 14th September. We met at Zone A for the Virgin Atlantic flight number VS043 to Las Vegas. Virgin Atlantic had given us our very own check-in desk. “The Lifetrain Trust” was proudly displayed on the monitor above the check-in staff.

Some of our group were there when I arrived and to my surprise I knew quite a few from previous trips. Simon, Sue, Wendy, David R and Tony K had all been to Hong Kong in 1994 with a similar group (Then known as Surrey Phab). Pat was still at the helm with husband Graham but there were also new faces: Richard, Peter, Mel and Donna K who were all there as helpers and were linked in some way with The Lifetrain Trust. There were also some good friends: Donna S, Sian & Sarah and some friendships about to be formed: Marcia, Tony P & Pauline.

Ten and a half hours was the flying time to Las Vegas. Foolishly I thought that if I stayed up most of the night before then I would get a decent sleep on the plane. Not so but at least Virgins’ In-flight entertainment is better than most airlines.

Las Vegas is situated in the southern tip of Navada, surrounded by desert. It was a place I had always wanted to experience. It has been described as the most exciting and entertaining city in the world. You would be pushed to find another city that has all the amenities that a complete resort destination can offer: luxurious hotels, fine dining, live entertainment and state-of-the art convention facilities as well as being the gambling Capital of the world.

On arrival at our hotel; The San Remo on Tropicana Avenue (a short drive from McCarran Airport) I think it would be fair to say there were some pretty tired people. It felt like midnight but due to the time difference of 8 hours it was actually the middle of the afternoon! Most of us were too tired to leave the hotel so just un-packed and spent the rest of the day around the San Remo hotel complex. In Las Vegas there is no such thing as a quiet drink so we all sat around the bar shouting over the background music and listening to the bells, rings, tunes and coins thumping out of the slot machines in the casino on the ground floor. We had a lovely buffet dinner….not! Most of us were in bed by ten as we had to be by the bus at seven the next morning.

I roomed with David throughout the ten days. Despite his disability David was like an additional helper for the entire holiday. He did much fetching and carrying for everyone and was an invaluable pusher for me. On the last night (in San Francisco – more later) he was given an award for all this extra help. It was recognition that was thoroughly deserved. David was a star!

Not a star on that first night though. I need light to transfer to the bed but could not reach the light when in it. David agreed to switch it off for me when I’d got into bed. When in bed I asked David to switch it off but the snoring from his bed made me realize this wasn’t going to happen. I didn’t get much sleep that night with the light on. I made sure the bedside light was reachable from then on!

We skipped breakfast to go straight to the bus and off for our first sightseeing experience. In half an hour we were at Scenic Airlines Airport. The Airline omitted to inform us that passports were required for the flight (post 9/11 no doubt). Only four of our party did not have theirs with them. This included Michael who had been waiting 50 years for this moment!. Luckily I had mine. We were helped on the plane by both the Airline staff and Lifetrains’ helpers. There were about 14 of us on board and soon our early morning flight was underway.

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado River is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and one of the planet's most astounding accomplishments. The sheer majesty and beauty of the scenery found here is beyond belief.It is 277 miles long and varies in width from 5 miles to 18 miles. It is about 5,000 feet deep as measured from the south rim and 6,000 feet deep as measured from the north rim. The Canyon itself is not that old, only 5 or 6 million years (only!). The rock layers exposed at the very bottom of the Grand Canyon are almost 2 billion years old.

The Scenic Airlines plane Inside the plane A view of the Canyon

Unfortunately the noise of the plane engines made it impossible to hear the commentary which was available via a headset in 4 different languages. The flight lasted about 80 minutes out and back. It was an experience I will never forget.

After buying souvenirs in the airlines’ shop and a half an hour game of ‘lets manually put the wheelchairs on the bus’ we set off back to the hotel and had a breakfast - lunch.

Time was then our own until the evenings entertainment one block down the road at Tropicana. The party split into several small groups and we all did our own thing. I went with Peter D, Graham P, Wendy, Sarah, Marcia, Graham, Richard and my room-mate David for a wander down Las Vegas Blvd, commonly known as “The Strip” (the main and by far the biggest Street in Las Vegas). The Street was very busy, as it is apparently from early morning to late night. There are hotels, restaurants, casinos, cafes, souvenir shops, clothes shops – you name it. We went up as far as Bellagio, which is a massive 3,000 room hotel complex with a picturesque lake out the front. On the way back we stopped of for a bite to eat and a drink at Harley Davisons’ café before returning to the hotel for an early dinner.

Monday night was Show Night. “Folies Bergere’s”  to be exact. This is Las Vegas’ longest-running production show (44 years). With stunning acrobatics, vibrant music and rich, colourful costumes, "Folies Bergere" is a feast for the senses. The show starts out as a tease in a dressing room scene, as showgirls and dancers step out from behind their vanities in barely-there negligees (with flesh-coloured bras beneath in the covered show), giving the audience a peek at what's to come.

The show takes the audience through the ages, from the flappers and vamps of the '20s, to the pinups of the '50s to present day seductresses.  Juggler Wally Eastwood was the star of the show for me, he was an unbridled burst of energy as he juggled golf balls in his mouth and played a piano with softballs. He had a dry, witty sense of humour which appealed to me. I would never have thought throwing and catching objects could be so amusing.

Tuesday 16th, our second full day of the holiday, was maybe the busiest of the entire ten days. It certainly was for our coach driver both with driving and operating the motorised lift (all our coaches were fitted with a lift to raise wheelchairs from ground level to seat level). Firstly it was off to the Valley of Fire: Dedicated in 1935, Valley of Fire is Nevada's oldest State Park. It is located only 50 miles northeast of Las Vegas. The rough floor and jagged walls of the park contain brilliant formations of eroded sandstone and sand dunes more than 150 million years old. These features, which are the centrepiece of the park's attractions, often appear to be on fire when reflecting the sun's rays. It thus seemed fitting that the temperature here seemed to rise alarmingly. Without any exaggeration as I got off the air conditioned bus the heat struck me in the same way as when you get too close to the bonfire on November 5th!

After a brief stop for sandwiches overlooking Lake Mead from the coach we travelled in a southerly direction down the east side of Las Vegas. It was dessert all the way, nothing but brown sand and interspersed green shrubs. The monotony of the journey only confounded by the arrival of a text message to my mobile phone, informing me Chelsea had beaten Sparta Prague in Matchday 1 of the Champions league. The Hoover Dam lies on the border of Nevada and Arizona. Rising more than 700 feet above the raging waters of the Colorado River, it was called one of the greatest engineering works in history. Built during the Great Depression, the construction of the Hoover Dam (1901-1934) drew men desperate for work to a remote and rugged canyon near Las Vegas. Here they struggled against brutal heat, choking dust and perilous heights to build a colossus of concrete that brought electricity and water to millions, transforming the American Southwest.

We crossed from Arizona to Nevada again and back northwards towards Las Vegas for sightseeing stop number three of the day. It was about 4.30 when we got to The Stratosphere. At 1,149 feet, the Stratosphere Hotel Tower is the tallest observation tower in America. The view from the 109th floor deck is truly spectacular and in true Las Vegas style it has a roller-coaster on top which gives you supposedly the highest ride in the world. As we got there quite late in the day and as it was very windy the ride was not operational. I’m not sure that wheelchairs could get up to the ride anyway so we were destined to miss out which was a great shame……not!

Valley of Fire Hoover Dam Stratosphere


Wednesday was slightly more relaxed. A later breakfast was followed by a day at leisure. Again, groups were formed and we could do as we wished. Those people who were unfortunate enough not to have their passport on them on Monday went off to fly the Grand Canyon. At last Michael could fulfil his 50 year ambition!

I chose to take a last look at The Strip this time with room-mate David and the girls (Mel, Sian and the Donnas’). This time, as recommended by Wendy, who had been there on our Monday trip, we went to see the Lion habitat in the MGM Grand. We hoped to see a show at the Bellagio lake when we got that far but an announcement came over the PA system (speakers playing music are positioned everywhere in Las Vegas) that due to high winds the show had been cancelled. High Winds? Well, I didn’t feel it.

We were back to the hotel, fed, packed and at McCarran Airport by five to depart for Fresno, described at the beginning of this article.

 

Our first full day in San Francisco (Sunday 21st September) was partly spent in Prison, well, visiting one anyway! First however was a sightseeing tour of the City itself. We travelled North and then the coach weaved its’ way up the mountainside giving spectacular views of the city from across the bay (See next page). We toured round the city too. Our guide pointed out the various attractions including a tram that was making its’ way up one of the streets. The guide had never seen it before. It had ‘Great Britain’ written on the side of it and Pauline believed it had been hijacked from Blackpool! The coach continued having gone over the Golden Gate Bridge and stopped at Fisherman’s Wharf.

We got off the coach and made our way (Debbie, a friend of Mel’s who had joined our party a few days before proved a good engine for both Marcia and I as we performed a train – Debbie pushing me, pushing Marcia) to Pier 41 where the Ferry to Alcatraz was leaving from.

Alcatraz Island is out in the middle of the San Francisco Bay. It took about 20 minutes on the ferry. Once on the Island we were given a brief talk on the prison: What films had been about it (Escape from Alcatraz) and what gangsters had been imprisoned there (Al Capone) and its’ history (Military 1850-1933, Penitentiary 1934-1963). We then waited a short while for the arrival of a ‘train’ which was to take all the disabled members of the group up to the prison. The wheelchairs all had to be pushed up (being disabled does have some advantages). In fact the wheelchairs and pushers beat the train.

When inside the prison we were all given a tape recorder with headset containing a full commentary on what made up the cell house and some quotes from some of the x-inmates. One comment that really bought home what prison life was like was by one inmate who said that the biggest single frustration was looking out of the courtyard window, across the bay and seeing what real life was like in San Francisco.

On our return to the hotel there was just enough time for the girls to shower before dinner. David and I let them use the shower in our room as we had the only ‘roll-in’ shower amongst our group. By way of thanks the girls turned the heating dial in our room to ‘full-on’. When we returned after dinner our room was like a sauna so we had to open one of the sliding glass doors by the balcony of our room to cool it down.  As it turned out, we were quite pleased the girls had played their games as otherwise we would never have sampled the sound of the Pacific Ocean waves crashing against the beach below.

Overlooking San Francisco (from Coach) Alcatraz Island in San Francisco Bay

Monday was a day for the girls. “Shop ‘till you drop” in Fishermans’ Wharf, San Francisco. I started the day with David providing his expert pusher services. We wandered down Pier 39 looking for souvenirs. I was pleased to find a watercolour picture to go on my wall at home to maintain my ‘picture from each country visited’ record. I also found a lovely Golden Gate Bridge Plate for my neighbour who had bravely offered to feed my cat.

Soon after getting to the last shop on the Pier David became conspicuous by his absence so faced with the choice of remaining in the spot where I had last seen him for an undefined period of time or progressing on my own, I chose the latter. I soon bumped into Peter & Michael and went with them to see the noisy, smelly colony of sea-lions. (See below). Our taste in food then separated us and I continued on my way back up Pier 39. Here, I met up with Simon & Tony K who shared 24 doughnuts with me (they were mini-doughnuts!). We had found a large percentage of our group outside a café having their lunch and as I was still rather peckish I tucked into Marcia’s chips and spare ribs. My eyes then became transfixed on the fruit stall across the Pier. I bought four of the biggest strawberries I had seen and a pot of chocolate to dip them in. They were gorgeous but then for the equivalent of £5 they should have been!

Michael & I by the sea lions The Pacific Ocean from Pacifica

After dinner at the hotel that night both Sian and myself were both encouraged to make speeches and Tony A volunteered to make one too. We had all signed a thank you card for Pat on the journey home from San Francisco but it had mysteriously gone missing between the coach and the dinner table. Pat received her card when it was found.

Tuesday came and all we had to look forward to was the long flight back to Heathrow. I consider myself quite fortunate as I only live 20 minutes from that airport. Many had additional journeys to such places as Blackpool, Macclesfield, Bristol and Yeovil.

Half-way through our holiday (l to r) Richard, Donna K, me, Sian, Donna S, Mel & Marcia

I would like to say a big ‘thank you’ to all the Staff of the Lifetrain Trust and the other helpers/pushers that made this holiday possible. Clearly without people like this, a holiday of this magnitude could never happen. Of course, the varying disabilities of the other members of the group present obstacles of all kinds, however,  great credit  must be given to The Lifetrain Trust as any such problems are overcome with the minimum of fuss to enable the holiday to run on smoothly and without the majority of people even knowing. Throughout the whole holiday, all participants, regardless of the extent of their disability are treated equally and that is why these holidays are so successful.

Goodbye from Pacifica (l to r) Mel, Sian, Donna K, Sarah, Donna S, me & Marcia